LEMON-SCENTED RICOTTA AND MASCARPONE CREAM PUFFS

Chef Sal Passalacqua of Dimaio Cucina in Berkeley Heights, New Jersey, writes: "My father's family is from Sicily and I spent my teenage years there, so that's where a lot of my culinary influences come from. At first glance, Sicilian cooking seems very simple, but that simplicity depends on using the freshest ingredients and often the combination of sweet and tart flavors. The anchovy pasta and the ricotta and mascarpone cream puffs here are perfect examples."
These can be served for dessert, tea, or brunch. Mascarpone, an Italian cream cheese, is sold at many supermarkets and at Italian markets.

3/4 cup whole milk

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, diced

1 tablespoon sugar

Pinch of salt

3/4 cup all purpose flour

4 large eggs

Vegetable oil (for frying)

1 cup whole-milk ricotta cheese

1/3 cup mascarpone cheese

3/4 cup powdered sugar, divided

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel

Bring milk, butter, 1 tablespoon sugar, and salt to boil in heavy medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring until butter melts. Add flour; stir until batter is smooth and forms ball, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and whisk in eggs, 1 at a time.

Add enough oil to heavy large saucepan to reach depth of 2 inches. Attach deep-fry thermometer to side of pan and heat oil to 350°F. Working in batches, drop 1 tablespoon batter into oil for each cream puff. Fry until golden brown and puffed, about 5 minutes per batch. Using slotted spoon, transfer cream puffs to paper towels to drain. (Can be made 6 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.)

Blend ricotta cheese, mascarpone cheese, 1/4 cup powdered sugar, and lemon peel in medium bowl for filling. Cut cream puffs in half horizontally. Spoon 1 rounded teaspoon filling into bottoms; cover with tops. Arrange on platter. Sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup powdered sugar.

Makes 3 dozen.

Bon AppétitSeptember 2005Sal Passalacqua Dimaio Cucina, Berkeley Heights, NJ

SEAFOOD PASTA WITH LEMON-SAFFRON HERB DRESSING

This elegant dish would be lovely for lunch. What to drink: Something light and fruity, like Sancerre or rosé.

12 ounces campanelle (trumpet-shaped pasta) or macaroni
1/8 teaspoon crushed saffron threads
7 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, divided
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup sour cream
1/4 cup thinly sliced green onions
2 tablespoons drained capers
2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon plus sprigs for garnish
1 tablespoon minced fresh dill plus sprigs for garnish
1 teaspoon sugar
1 pound cooked medium shrimp
1 cup finely chopped celery
1/2 pound Dungeness crabmeat

2 large handfuls of arugula
2 small heads of butter lettuce
Lemon wedges

Cook pasta in large pot of boiling salted water until tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup cooking liquid. Place 3 tablespoons hot cooking liquid in medium bowl. Sprinkle saffron over and let stand at room temperature 5 minutes. Transfer pasta to large bowl. Drizzle pasta with 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 tablespoon oil; toss to coat. Let stand at room temperature until cool, stirring occasionally.

Add mayonnaise, sour cream, green onions, capers, minced tarragon, minced dill, sugar, remaining 6 tablespoons lemon juice, and remaining 5 tablespoons oil to bowl with saffron liquid. Whisk to combine. Season saffron dressing to taste with salt and pepper. Pour dressing over pasta. Add shrimp and celery; toss to coat. Add reserved pasta cooking liquid by tablespoonfuls if mixture is dry. Add crab; toss gently. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours.

Line platter with arugula and butter lettuce leaves. Spoon pasta over greens. Garnish with lemon wedges and tarragon and dill sprigs. Serve cold.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.Bon AppétitAugust 2005

SUMMER FRUIT WITH PRALINE FONDUE

Spear fruit with skewers and dip it into the butterscotch, then dip into the nuts and crème fraîche.

Beat together in medium bowl, then transfer to small serving bowl:
1/2 cup crème fraîche
1/2 tablespoon dark brown sugar

Place in another small serving bowl:
1/2 cup chopped toasted pecans

Place crème fraîche and nuts on platter and surround with:
Assorted fresh fruit (such as grapes, berries, cherries, and plum and peach wedges)

Melt in medium nonstick skillet over medium heat:
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
Increase heat to medium-high and add:
1 cup (packed) dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons water

Stir sugar and water 1 minute (mixture will bubble vigorously), then stir in:
2 1/2 tablespoons dark rum
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Transfer butterscotch to bowl. Serve with crème fraîche, nuts, and fruit.

Makes 4 servings.Bon AppétitMenusAugust 2005

HONEY-ROASTED PLUMS WITH THYME AND CREME FRAICHE

For extra color, use different kinds of plums, such as bright red-fleshed Elephant Hearts, yellow Shiro plums, and pluots. (Avoid using Santa Rosas, which don't retain their shape when cooked.)

1/2 cup (packed) dark brown sugar
1/4 cup honey
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1/2 cup fresh thyme sprigs
6 large assorted ripe but firm plums (about 2 pounds), halved, pitted
Crème fraîche
Additional fresh thyme sprigs

Preheat oven to 475°F. Stir first 4 ingredients in large ovenproof nonstick skillet over high heat until butter melts. Cook 2 minutes, stirring constantly (mixture will bubble vigorously). Add plum halves, cut side down. Cook plums without stirring for 2 minutes. Turn plums over and transfer skillet to oven. Roast until caramel is deep brown, checking frequently to prevent burning, about 4 minutes.

Divide plum halves among 6 plates. Spoon sauce from skillet over plums, leaving most of thyme sprigs behind. Drizzle plums with crème fraîche, garnish with additional thyme sprigs, and serve.

Makes 6 servings.Bon AppétitTime For DessertAugust 2005

RIB-EYE STEAK WITH WARM TOMATO CORN SALAD
3 (12- to 14-oz) boneless rib-eye steaks (1 1/2 inches thick)
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
3/4 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted
1 medium onion, chopped
1 Italian frying pepper, seeded and chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 teaspoon chili powder (not pure chile)
2 cups corn (from 4 large ears)
1/2 lb cherry or grape tomatoes, halved
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

Pat steaks dry and sprinkle with salt and pepper.Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté steaks, turning over once, 10 to 12 minutes total for medium-rare. Transfer to a plate and keep warm, covered with foil.

Pour off fat from skillet, keeping any brown bits in skillet, and return to moderately high heat. Add butter, onion, and frying pepper and sauté, stirring occasionally and scraping up brown bits, until onion is golden, about 6 minutes. Add garlic and chili powder and sauté, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in corn and cover skillet. Cook until corn is just tender, about 3 minutes. Remove lid, then add tomatoes and sauté, stirring, until tomatoes just begin to soften, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in any meat juices on plate, basil, lime juice, and salt to taste.

Transfer steaks to a cutting board, then cut across the grain into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Serve with tomato corn salad.

Makes 6 to 8 main-course servings.GourmetQuick KitchenSeptember 2005